| Site Notes for South Brazil | ||
Turn left off the main BR116 at the signpost, 390 km from São Paulo and 35 km before Curitiba. At the start the road is flat with areas for grassland species (Lesser Grass-finch Emberizoides ypiranganus, and Great Pampa-finch Embernagra platensis, for example). After 3 km there is a turning to the right signposted to Quatro Barras which is said to be good. After a further 4 km, just where the road drops down the serra, turn right and double back along a rough but driveable track. Pass some semi-demolished buildings on your left and you should find Canebrake Ground-creeper Clibanornis dendrocolaptoides without difficulty, especially if you play a tape. If you don't have a tape, watch out for a series of loud "crek" notes.
The forest, at about 900m, is almost untouched and quiet for recording. In the breeding season there are Bare-throated Bellbird Procnias nudicollis and Hooded Berryeater Carpornis cucullatus calling all over the place, Mouse-colored Tapaculo Scytalopus speluncae and White-breasted Tapaculo S. indigoticus side by side, Giant Antshrike Batara cinerea, Rufous-backed Antvireo Dysithamnus xanthopterus Pale-browed Treehunter Cichlocolaptes leucophrus Grey-capped Tyrannulet Phyllomyias griseocapilla Azure-shouldered Tanager Thraupis cyanoptera, Brassy-breasted Tanager Tangara desmaresti and lots more. There is plenty of bamboo and I see no reason why one shouldn't find Purple-winged Ground-dove Claravis godefrida there. On my last visit Edson Endrogo found the rare Blackish-blue Seedeater Amaurospiza moesta.
There is also excellent birding lower down. Drive to the bottom of the serra and in São João da Graciosa fork right towards Morretes. In Porto de Cima, before Morretes, immediately after crossing a long, narrow bridge over the Rio Nhundiaquara, turn right and drive along the rough track that follows the river up into the forest. We drove up to about 300m. It was pissing with rain and we saw practically nothing but Parrini says in drier conditions the site is first class.
The best place for accommodation is probably Antonina (fork left in S. João da Graciosa).
South Brazil Site Index
Curitiba / São José dos Pinhais
The small range of the Wetland Tapaculo Scytalopus iraiensis is limited to a number of marshes in and near the city of Curitiba. Most of these are suffering from urban expansion and the type locality has been flooded by a dam.
Probably the best site is the Fazenda São Pedro in São José dos Pinhais, a neighbouring municipality to Curitiba. . To get there turn right off the BR-376 from Joinville at km 622.5 onto a small dirt track beside a wall with "ARGUS AVES" painted on it (coming from Curitiba you will have to drive several kms further on and make a "retorno"). After 1 km fork left and immediately right. After a further 1.5 km the gate of the Fazenda São Pedro is on the left. Ask at the house for permission to enter (the gate may be locked) and drive along a farm track for 1.5 km till you get to an open grassland. In July 2002 we found three tapaculos at the far end of the grassland which replied to playback of the song (posted on Worldtwitch (http://worldtwitch.virtualave.net/new_world.htm) ; the song is so like that of Mouse-coloured Tapaculo Scytalopus speluncae that the latter’s song would probably attract iraiensis) but they did not show. The birds would probably be more responsive later in the year.
In this grassland we found Sickle-winged Nightjar Eleothreptus anomalus, Sharp-tailed Tyrant Culicivora caudacuta, Long-tailed Reed-Finch Donacospiza albifrons and Lesser Grass-Finch Emberizoides ypiranganus.
South Brazil Site Index
The Baia de Guaratuba extends 25 km inland from the sea and is a well preserved area of mangroves and reed beds, bordered by flooded forest. This is excellent habitat for a large number of water birds and also for a few restricted range species like Paraná Antwren Stymphalornis acutirostris, Wren-like Rushbird Phleocryptes melanops and Many-colored Rush-Tyrant Tachuris rubrigastra, and species that are common further south but less common in the southeast like Unicolored Blackbird Agelaius cyanopus and Yellow-winged Blackbird Agelaius thilius.
To visit the bay you must hire a boat. The best place is the "marina do Ananias", telephone (0xx41) 442-2539, (the owner, Ananias Santos, is prefeito (mayor) of Guaratuba), 4 km north of the bus station ("rodoviária"), past the airport. In August 2002 the cost was R$130 (US$43) for the day. Ask for Jorge to drive your boat as he is used to taking Marcos Bornschein and Bianca Reinert, who discovered the antwren, to work with the birds. The Portuguese names for the species are "bicudinho" (Paraná Antwren), "bate-bico" (Wren-like Rushbird) and "papa-piri" (Many-colored Rush-Tyrant). All three can readily be found in the reed beds ("pirizais") in the bay, about half an hour from the marina. The antwren is also common in reeds and long grass near the water throughout the bay area.
At the "ponte", where the pipe carrying Guaratuba’s water supply crosses the river, an hour from the marina, you will find Kaempfer's Tody-Tyrant Hemitriccus kaempferi in the forest along the right bank and Paraná Antwren in the grass and reeds by the bridge.
It is quicker and cheaper to look for the antwren by car—see under Garuva—but you will need a boat for the rushbird and rush-tyrant.
South Brazil Site Index
A very good site is near Garuva, 30km before Joinville. Zero your odometer at the bus station ("rodoviária"), head south (towards Guaratuba) and almost immediately turn left (east) at the main cross roads in Garuva. Drive straight as a die out of town (not bearing left with the "main" road). At km 15.5 there is a marsh where we saw Marsh Antbird Stymphalornis acutirostris and Restinga Tyrannulet Phylloscartes kronei.
At km 17 there is another marsh where we saw Stymphalornis again and also had Spotted Bamboowren Psilorhamphus guttatus and Three-striped Flycatcher Conopias trivirgata. This is a good place to see forest birds with a scope as there are trees scattered about in the marsh and the forest edge is close. At km 26.3, turn left off the main road, doubling back somewhat, and at km 28.9 turn right over a low bridge over the Rio Cubatão. At km 31.6 a road loops up to the left through the forest to avoid a soft patch on the main road and you can walk this. In all we saw or heard 129 species in one morning, including Saw-billed Hermit Ramphodon naevius, Sombre Hummingbird Aphantochroa cirrhochloris, Crescent-chested Puffbird Malacoptila striata, Spot-backed Antshrike Hypoedaleus guttatus, Squamate Antbird Myrmeciza squamosa, São Paulo Tyrannulet Phylloscartes paulistus and Yellow-lored Tody-flycatcher Todirostrum poliocephalum, to mention only some of the endemics.
South Brazil Site Index
Kaempfer’s Tody-tyrant was rediscovered by Mark Pearman at Salto do Piraí, near Joinville. The following is adapted from Joe Tobias’ notes for the site.
From Joinville drive 10km southwest to Vila Nova. After a further 1,5km, at some rice paddies, turn right to Salto do Piraí (11km). After Piraí village cross a river and then left over another river and then right at a T junction and aim for the waterfall. Opposite the second house after the turn-off to the waterfall there is a gate through an ornamental garden, 50m from the river. Cross the river and go up a path c.40m to an area just before a tiny stream, with cecropias and shrubs on either side of a broad, grassy path. Kaempfer’s crosses here several times a day.
South Brazil Site Index
Kaempfer’s Tody-Tyrant can also be seen at the Reserva Volta Velha, near Itapoá. From Garuva take the road towards Guaratuba and turn right to Itapoá at a police post, after about 25km. When the road reaches the sea drive through tacky seaside developments, keeping as near the sea as possible, till you get to a house with "Pousada Volta Velha" painted on the bare wall (19km from the Garuva / Guaratuba road). Turn inland and pass a prominent high pink apartment block "Residencial Paraty". After 3km you reach a bridge with a sign "Reserva Volta Velha". Cross an open, grassy area with the pousada buildings round it and bear left at a small cattle corral. After a palm plantation you reach excellent restinga forest. White-breasted Tapaculo Scytalopus indigoticus is in the bushes near the forest edge. We found Kaempfer’s after 1.2 km, just before the track through the forest reaches the river, and again about 300 m further on. Restinga Tyrannulet Phylloscartes kronei is here and Helmeted Woodpecker Dryocopus galeatus has also been seen in the reserve.
The person in charge of the reserve is a friendly young man with a limp called Luiz Carlos. The pousada itself is normally only open for groups but we were able to sleep there although no breakfast was provided. Speak to Ana Maria, the owner’s daughter - tel (47) 9972-9070 (mobile) or 449-5104. She probably speaks English. If accomodation at the pousada is not possible Nil’s Hotel in the centre of Itapoá is open all the year.
South Brazil Site Index
As one drives south Field Flicker Colaptes campestris campestroides, the southern form of Campo Flicker Colaptes campestris, starts to appear here, as does Chimango Caracara Milvago chimango. In the town we saw Long-tailed Cinclodes Cinclodes pabsti for the first time, and then again beside the road to Bom Jesus.
South Brazil Site Index
There is a dam on the road from São Joaquim, soon after the state boundary, with Speckled Teal Anas flavirostris, Yellow-billed Pintail Anas georgica, Brazilian Duck Amazonetta brasiliensis and Sooty Swift Cypseloides fumigatus. In the marshy area around the dam there was Plumbeous Rail Rallus sanguinolentus, Straight-billed Reedhaunter Limnornis rectirostris, Firewood-gatherer Anumbius annumbi, Lesser Grass-finch Emberizoides ypiranganus and Saffron-cowled Blackbird Xanthopsar flavus. We heard Freckle-breasted Thornbird Phacellodomus striaticollis soon after, and began to see Black-and-white Monjita Heteroxolmis dominicana and Azure Jay Cyanocorax caeruleus regularly. From this point in the trip almost every pond or marsh had something of interest.
In the town of Vacaria we were fortunate to see a flock of 200+ Red-spectacled Parrots Amazona pretrei, a species that was once common in Rio Grande do Sul but is now quite difficult to find.
South Brazil Site Index
P. N. Aparados da Serra
I myself have not been into the park which closes for two days a week and on the other days opens only at 8:00 am. The view of the canyon is said to be spectacular. Red-spectacled Parrot Amazona pretrei, Long-tufted Screech-owl Otus sanctaecatarinae, Mottled Piculet Picumnus nebulosus , Wetland Tapaculo Scytalopus iraiensis (a recently discovered new site for this species), Long-tailed Cinclodes Cinclodes pabsti, Araucaria Tit-Spinetail Leptasthenura setaria, Straight-billed Reedhaunter Limnornis rectirostris, Black-and-white Monjita Heteroxolmis dominicana, Long-tailed Reed-Finch Donacospiza albifrons, Black-and-rufous Warbling-Finch Poospiza nigrorufa, Lesser Grass-Finch Emberizoides ypiranganus, Black-bellied Seedeater Sporophila melanogaster, Glaucous-blue Grosbeak Passerina glaucocaerulea, Saffron-cowled Blackbird Xanthopsar flavus, Brown-and-yellow Marshbird Pseudoleistes virescens are all found in the park. Many of these species can be seen in the areas around it.
South Brazil Site Index
Mentioned in Forrester under Aparados da Serra National Park, which I have not visited. The Hotel Veraneio Hampel is not expensive and has its own private forest. There is good birding here and along the track down the hill from the hotel which bends round to the left and eventually joins the main road. Interesting birds here were Long-tufted Screech-owl Otus sanctaecatarinae, Mottled Piculet Picumnus nebulosus , Greenish Tyrannulet Phyllomyias virescens, Brown-breasted Bamboo-tyrant Hemitriccus obsoletus, Green-chinned Euphonia Euphonia chalybea and Chestnut-headed Tanager Pyrrhocoma ruficeps.
A few kilometres along the road towards Aparados da Serra is the FLONA (Floresta Nacional) de São Francisco de Paula. We called here especially to see Araucaria Tit-Spinetail Leptasthenura setaria which we had failed to find at the Veraneio Hampel. At the office we got permission to bird in the reserve and found the tit-spinetail without difficulty on the edge of the arauacarias.
South Brazil Site Index
Mostardas The road from Capivari is now paved as far as Tavares. The main entrance to the Lagoa do Peixe is 18km south of Mostardas, well signposted. The road passes through grassland and dunes before reaching the beach, along which you can drive till you reach the channel where the lagoon meets the sea. Excellent for seabirds and waders.
In December 2002 a gale was blowing off the sea and we were able to see a number of normally offshore sea birds from the beach, including Black-browed Albatross Thalassarche melanophris, White-chinned Petrel Procellaria aequinoctialis, Sooty Shearwater Puffinus griseus and Parasitic and Pomarine Jaeger Stercorarius parasiticus and S. pomarinus.
There is a second access to the Lagoa do Peixe further south, the one mentioned by Forrester. Turn left 1.2km south of the centre of Tavares (where the southern access road to Tavares joins the main road); turn right at a pine plantation and then left before a long house; carry straight on to the lagoon. There is no access from here to the ocean beach.
You can also get to Mostardas from the south, taking the ferry from Rio Grande to São José do Norte which is 150 km south of Tavares. There is a good ocean beach at São José but you won’t see anything there which you can’t see at Lagoa do Peixe. 50 km of the road is deep sand - very slow when dry and impassable when wet. The habitat is uninteresting and I do not recommend this route.
South Brazil Site Index
As the road to Rio Grande leaves Pelotas it passes through extensive wetlands which are full of birds. Most of the species listed by Forrester for Taim can be found here.
At Quinta there is a large, built up roundabout, the first road to the right leading to Taim and the next to Rio Grande. Shortly after the roundabout, on the road to Rio Grande, you come to a prison ("penitenciária"). The dirt road to the right, 400 metres before the prison, runs for miles through good wetlands and eventually emerges onto the road to Taim.
South Brazil Site Index
The marshes around the town are well worth exploring. A good entry point is along the railway line crossed by the road to Cassino. Bay-capped Wren-Spinetail Spartonoica maluroides is found here and recently Dot-winged Crake Porzana spiloptera was sighted, a bird rarely seen in Brazil.
Jürgen Lehnert JWELehnert@aol.com reports that in September 2003 he chartered a 13 metre fishing boat in Rio Grande for a pelagic trip. The boat took him 30 miles off the coast and he saw many sea birds: Magellanic Penguin Spheniscus magellanicus, Black-browed and Yellow-nosed Albatrosses Thalassarche melanophris and T. chlororhynchos, Southern Giant Petrel Macronectes giganteus, White-chinned and Spectacled Petrels Procellaria aequinoctialis and P. conspicillata, Cape Petrel Daption capense, Great and Manx Shearwater Puffinus gravis and P. puffinus, Wilson's Storm-Petrel Oceanites oceanicus, Subantarctic and Chilean Skua Catharacta antarctica and C. chilensis, Parasitic Jaeger Stercorarius parasiticus, Brown-hooded Gull Larus maculipennis, Royal Tern Sterna maxima and South American Tern Sterna hirundinacea. Most of the birds were at least 12 miles from the coast. The owner of the boat is Dino Maiato (tel. 9971-1531) and Jürgen paid R$500 (c. US$170) for the trip, including a lot of fresh fish for chumming. The boat left from Seção da Barra, 2 km from Rio Grande towards the southern jetty, and the trip took 10 hours, starting at 3:00 am. Dino suggested that the best time to go out would be January to March, when the sea is calmer and birds are still plentiful.
South Brazil Site Index
The Hotel Atlântico in this pleasant beach resort is a good base for Taim and Rio Grande. The ocean beach is busy with motor traffic (a short cut to Rio Grande) but is worth a visit for its gulls and terns.
South Brazil Site Index
The 82km drive from Cassino takes about an hour.
The bird life here is abundant. The drawback is that much of the birding is along a causeway carrying the busy main road south. You can get away from the main road by taking a dirt road to the left, near the IBAMA headquarters ("Ecological Station" on Forrester’s map), which passes through good wetlands.
The Lagoa Mangueira, south of Taim, is worth a visit. Turn left after the petrol station at Curral Alto (131km from Casino).
South Brazil Site Index
The bridge over the Rio Camaquã, a few kilometres south of Santana da Boa Vista on the road from Pelotas to Caçapava do Sul, is a stake-out for Red-spectacled Parrot Amazona pretrei. There is a pousada near the bridge and I recommend spending the night at the pousada and birding from the bridge which gives a good view over gallery woodland with plenty of birds.
South Brazil Site Index
Between São Borja and Uruguaiana the BR 472 runs through extensive wetlands (unfortunately now in the process of being drained) with large numbers of waterfowl, waders, ibis, raptors etc.
Most of the espinilho parkland, described by Forrester, is now preserved in a new state park. Though this is good news for conservation it is bad for birders as access to the reserve is obtainable only through the state environment secretariat in Porto Alegre. However, all the specialities can be found in an area reached through the Fazenda Santo Ângelo. Look for a group of grain silos on the left (travelling south), 11km before the town of Barra do Quaraí. The manager of the fazenda gave us permission to visit the espinilho but we later found he was not in fact the owner, whose foreman found us there but graciously invited us to stay as long as we wanted.
South Brazil Site Index