Santa Catarina
A very good site is near Garuva, 30km before Joinville. Zero your odometer at the bus station (”rodoviária”), head south (towards Guaratuba) and almost immediately turn left (east) at the main cross roads in Garuva. Drive straight as a die out of town (not bearing left with the “main” road). At km 15.5 there is a marsh where we saw Paraná Antwren Formicivora (formerly Stymphalornis) acutirostris and Restinga Tyrannulet Phylloscartes kronei.
At km 17 there is another marsh where we saw the antwrens again and also had Spotted Bamboowren Psilorhamphus guttatus and Three-striped Flycatcher Conopias trivirgata. This is a good place to see forest birds with a scope as there are trees scattered about in the marsh and the forest edge is close. At km 26.3, turn left off the main road, doubling back somewhat, and at km 28.9 turn right over a low bridge over the Rio Cubatão. At km 31.6 a road loops up to the left through the forest to avoid a soft patch on the main road and you can walk this. In all we saw or heard 129 species in one morning, including Saw-billed Hermit Ramphodon naevius, Sombre Hummingbird Aphantochroa cirrhochloris, Crescent-chested Puffbird Malacoptila striata, Spot-backed Antshrike Hypoedaleus guttatus, Squamate Antbird Myrmeciza squamosa, São Paulo Tyrannulet Phylloscartes paulistus and Yellow-lored Tody-flycatcher Todirostrum poliocephalum, to mention only some of the endemics.
Kaempfer’s Tody-tyrant was rediscovered by Mark Pearman at Salto do Piraí, near Joinville. The following is adapted from Joe Tobias’ notes for the site.
From Joinville drive 10km southwest to Vila Nova. After a further 1,5km, at some rice paddies, turn right to Salto do Piraí (11km). After Piraí village cross a river and then left over another river and then right at a T junction and aim for the waterfall. Opposite the second house after the turn-off to the waterfall there is a gate through an ornamental garden, 50m from the river. Cross the river and go up a path c.40m to an area just before a tiny stream, with cecropias and shrubs on either side of a broad, grassy path. Kaempfer’s crosses here several times a day.
Kaempfer’s Tody-Tyrant can also be seen at the Reserva Volta Velha, near Itapoá. From Garuva take the road towards Guaratuba and turn right to Itapoá at a police post, after about 25km. When the road reaches the sea drive through tacky seaside developments, keeping as near the sea as possible, till you get to a house with “Pousada Volta Velha” painted on the bare wall (19km from the Garuva / Guaratuba road). Turn inland and pass a prominent high pink apartment block “Residencial Paraty”. After 3km you reach a bridge with a sign “Reserva Volta Velha”. Cross an open, grassy area with the pousada buildings round it and bear left at a small cattle corral. After a palm plantation you reach excellent restinga forest. White-breasted Tapaculo Scytalopus indigoticus is in the bushes near the forest edge. We found Kaempfer’s after 1.2 km, just before the track through the forest reaches the river, and again about 300 m further on. Restinga Tyrannulet Phylloscartes kronei is here and Helmeted Woodpecker Dryocopus galeatus has also been seen in the reserve.
The person in charge of the reserve is a friendly young man with a limp called Luiz Carlos. The pousada itself is normally only open for groups but we were able to sleep there although no breakfast was provided. Speak to Ana Maria, the owner’s daughter – tel (47) 9972-9070 (mobile) or 449-5104. She probably speaks English. If accomodation at the pousada is not possible Nil’s Hotel in the centre of Itapoá is open all the year.
As one drives south Field Flicker Colaptes campestris campestroides, the southern form of Campo Flicker Colaptes campestris, starts to appear here, as does Chimango Caracara Milvago chimango. In the town we saw Long-tailed Cinclodes Cinclodes pabsti for the first time, and then again beside the road to Bom Jesus.
