Amazonas
Manaus is probably the best centre for birding in Brazilian Amazonia so far as number of species is concerned. Situated where the Rivers Solimões and Negro join to form the Amazon it covers three distinct biogeographical regions: the area east of the Negro, the interfluvium between the Solimões and the Negro, and the area south of the Solimões / Amazon. Furthermore the BR-174 north to Venezuela gives quick access to the extreme north of Brazil.
In Manaus itself the grounds of the Hotel Tropical , recommended by Forrester; are worth a visit if you have time to kill. Another option if you have a morning available before a flight is to take a taxi to the ferry to Careiro (”Balsa” on Forrester’s map), cross the river (you pass over the famous meeting of the waters of the Negro and the Solimões) and walk the road south [in September 2004 we saw from the air that the road has now been paved; the birding along the road may well have deteriorated].
A marvellous trip from Manaus is to spend a few days on a river boat. The first destination (or a day trip) might be Marchantaria, an island close to Manaus in the Rio Solimões with a number of specialist species for this habitat (Olive-spotted Hummingbird Leucippus chlorocercus, Zimmer’s Woodcreeper Xiphorhyncus necopinus, Dark-breasted Spinetail Synallaxis albigularis, White-bellied Spinetail Synallaxis propinqua, Red-and-white Spinetail Certhiaxis mustelina, Parker´s Spinetail Cranioleuca vulpecula, Scaled Spinetail Cranioleuca muelleri, Castelnau’s Antshrike Thamnophilus cryptoleucus, Black-and-white Antbird Myrmochanes hemileucus, Brownish Elaenia Elaenia pelzelni, River Tyrannulet Serpophaga hypoleuca, Riverside Tyrant Knipolegus orenocensis and Pearly-breasted Conebill Conirostrum margaritae). The Anavilhanas archipelago on the Rio Negro is about five hours from Manaus and is good for flooded igapó forest specialists like Blackish-grey Antshrike Thamnophilus nigrocinereus, Klage’s Antwren Myrmotherula klagesi, Leaden Antwren Myrmotherula assimilis, Ash-breasted Antbird Myrmoborus lugubris and Snethlage’s Tody-tyrant Hemitriccus minor. Our boat was the Iguana with room for up to eight passengers. The food was excellent and we had a launch for visiting the flooded forest. The boat can be arranged through Birding Brazil.
The BR-174 north from Manaus crosses a number of valleys with Mauritia palms. Look for Point-tailed Palmcreeper Berlepschia rikeri and Sulphury Flycatcher Tyrannopsis sulphurea in these.
At km 44 on the BR-174, just north of the police post, there is an interesting campina (white sand) area. Opposite the INPA sign on the right there is a track where you can park your car away from the road and in the campinarana (white sand forest) along this track there are Spotted Puffbird Bucco tamatia, Guianan Slaty-antshrike Thamnophilus punctatus and Yellow-crested Manakin Heterocercus flavivertex. The track to the campina starts at the INPA sign. First there is about 300m of campinarana with Guianan Slaty-antshrike again, Saffron-crested Tyrant-manakin Neopelma chrysocephalum and Black Manakin Xenopipo atronitens. In the campina itself, a sandy area with low, bushy trees along a track to the right, you will find Bronzy Jacamar Galbula leucogastra and Pelzeln’s Tody-tyrant Hemitriccus inornatus, until recently only known from a single 19th-century specimen from northwest Brazil. [In 2005 the campina to the right of the road was closed off by a locked gate. The INPA office that holds the key is located on the left (as you travel north) immediately before the police checkpoint just south of the campinas. There was free access to the campina on the left of the road]
Dawn from the INPA tower on the ZF-2 road at km 50 on the BR-174 is a magnificent experience. You need permission from INPA (Birding Brazil can arrange this). In 2005 charges for visiting the tower were R$40 per person plus a per group fee of R$50 for the guide that you are supposed to take. The track to the tower is to the left, 15km from the BR-174, after the remains of a house and fences with fruit trees. Take the side trail, which will not be obvious in the dark; the track itself can be knee deep in muddy water.
To the right (going north) of the BR-174, at km 85, we found a new road with little traffic through good terra firme forest.
This recently (2007) opened lodge lies immediately opposite the Anavilhanas archipelago, on the right (west) bank of the Rio Negro, close to the village of Novo Airão. The lodge provides transportation from Manaus, which is c.3 hours away by road, as part of its package. Accommodation is spacious and relatively luxurious, with good food to boot, and being close to a small town it has a constant electricity supply. Birds right around the lodge include the pallens form of Snethlage’s Tody-Tyrant Hemitriccus minor (probably a good split), Yellow-crested Manakin (common) Heterocercus flavivertex, White-winged Potoo Nyctibius leucopterus and Spectacled Owl Pulsatrix perspicillata. The owner, Augusto (English-speaking), is keen to attract birders and plans to construct a tower in the not too distant future. Despite only having been open a few months, at the time of our visit (December 2007), the lodge was receiving plenty of non-birding custom, so it would certainly be advisable to book in advance.
The lodge, of course, makes a fine base to visit the Anavilhanas archipelago and virtually all of the key specialties (Zimmer’s Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus kienerii, Ash-breasted Antbird Myrmoborus lugubris, Leaden Myrmotherula assimilis, Klages’ M. klagesi and Cherrie’s M. cherriei Antwrens, etc.) of the islands can be found on a relatively short boat ride from the lodge. In addition, by boat one can also visit várzea forest in an igarapé on the west bank of the Negro, c.15 minutes downstream of the lodge. Andrew Whittaker has discovered Chestnut-headed Nunlet Nonnula amaurocephala in this area, but we were unsuccessful in finding it, despite using playback. We did see several Fiery Topaz Topaza pyra.
Birding the sandy-belt terra firme on the road into the lodge, and surrounding trails, despite appearing somewhat ‘scrappy’, is also worthwhile. Rio Negro Gnatcatcher Polioptila facilis and Spot-backed Antwren Herpsilochmus dorsimaculatus are regular constituents of mixed flocks, Pompadour Cotinga Xipholena punicea is frequently seen along the entrance road, Brown-banded Puffbird Notharchus ordii can be found close to the first igarapé downstream of the lodge, we had a couple of sightings of Bar-bellied Woodcreeper Hylexetastes stresemanni, whilst hordes of Festive Parrots Amazona festiva overfly the area at dusk. A reasonable selection of understorey Thamnophilidae includes White-cheeked Gymnopithys leucaspis and Yellow-browed Antbirds Hypocnemis hypoxantha. At least 300 species have been found in the area to date, despite very few ornithological visitors.
These notes were submitted by Guy Kirwan.
Situated in the Madeira–Purus interfluvium, south of the Amazon, Tupana Lodge offers relatively basic but not inexpensive accommodation at the edge of the agricultural frontier on the road from Manaus to Porto Velho. It takes roughly four hours to reach the lodge from Manaus, including ferry crossings. The accommodation is simple but clean and adequate; power is supplied by a generator. An interesting feature is the ‘upstairs deck’ above the rooms and dining area, which permits reasonable views of the surrounding canopy. Early-morning watches, especially, produced reasonably regular sightings of Kawall’s Amazon Amazona kawalli, Scarlet-shouldered Parrotlet Touit huetii, Short-tailed Parrot Graydidascalus brachyurus, Chestnut-capped Bucco macrodactylus and White-necked Puffbirds Notharcus hyperrhynchus, many tanagers (including the rare Dotted Tanager Tangara varia), White-browed Purpletuft Iodopleura isabellae, Chestnut Celeus elegans jumana and Scaly-breasted Woodpeckers C. grammicus, a pair of White-browed Hawks Leucopternis kuhli, Curl-crested Aracari Pteroglossus beauharnaesii, as well as two undescribed species, one a new Hemitriccus, the other an Herpsilochmus both are being described by Mario Cohn-Haft. Black Antbird Cercomacra serva and Peruvian Warbling Antbird Hypocnemis peruviana are also common around the lodge clearing.
The lodge has a very long trail system covering many tens of kms, although there are only a handful of different trails that you can easily cover. December is probably a relatively quiet time, compared to July or August, in terms of song, but large mixed-species flocks, which frequently contained Citron-bellied Attila Attila citriniventris, were regularly encountered fairly close the lodge (as at Anavilhanas Jungle Lodge, there are plans to build a tower at this locality). Obligate ant-following antbirds are a major feature: White-throated Antbird Gymnopithys salvini seemed common in terra firme with many small palms, as was the ‘unscaled’ form of Scale-backed Antbird Hylophylax poecilinotus. Less frequently encountered were Sooty Antbird Myrmeciza fortis and Hairy-crested Antbird Rhegmatorhina melanosticta. There is tape of Red-billed Ground Cuckoo Neomorphus pucheranii from this locality. Elegant Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus elegans was very common, and Hoffmann’s Woodcreeper Dendrocolaptes hoffmannsi was seen a couple of times during our six-day visit. Pearly Antshrike Megastictus margaritatus was a reasonably common constituent of the midstorey, especially in areas with palms, but the vocally different form of Undulated Antshrike Frederickena unduligera here never came to playback (always singing from some distance off).
These notes were submitted by Guy Kirwan.
Andrew Whittaker has added the following birds to the site list: From platform – Pompador, Purple-breasted and Spangled Cotinga, White-throated Tinamou, Starred Wood-Quail, Humaita Antbird, Reddish-winged Bare-eye (uncommon), Glossy-backed Becard, Brown-banded Puffbird, Rufous Potoo, Bar-bellied Woodcreeper, Pavonine Quetzal, Cinnamon Tyrant, Guianan Gnatcatcher and Chestnut-shouldered Antwren.
Andrew is working on a list for the site and requests that any birders visiting send him their observations for inclusion in a forthcoming publication. andrew@birdingbraziltours.com
The Parque Ecológico Lajes, just north of the town, is an interesting site with a number of unusual birds for Amazonia. [However in 2005 it was closed, though some of the species could be seen from the road]
At the north end of the garden outside the wall, there is a tree with red flowers where a pair of Crimson Topaz hummingbirds Topaza pella spend most of the day (in September 2004, however, it was absent). In the nearby undergrowth look for lower Amazonian Antbird Cercomacra laeta and Black-throated Antbird Myrmeciza atrothorax. In the Mauritia palms along the wall we saw Moriche Oriole Icterus chrysocephalus.
Inside the park there is a trail which passes through open, rocky campina (Green-tailed Goldenthroat Polytmus theresiae, Rufous-crowned Elaenia Elaenia ruficeps, Red-shouldered Tanager Tachyphonus phoenicius and White-naped Seedeater Dolospingus fringilloides) and then low woodland on sandy soil (Black Manakin Xenopipo atronitens and Bronzy Jacamar Galbula leucogastra). The trail then enters taller forest where you can find Pale-bellied Mourner Rhytipterna immunda and, if you are lucky, Guianan Cock-of-the-rock Rupicola rupicola.
The Iracema Falls Hotel, just north of the Parque Ecológico Lajes, is probably the best place to stay in Presidente Figueiredo, though the place is laid out like a concentration camp. There is good birding in the morning along the hotel driveway. If you choose not to stay at the hotel you can still visit the grounds. The official opening times for visitors are 8am to 4pm, but by prior arrangement you can organise earlier entry for no extra charge (day rate is R$5 per person).
At the Caverna do Maruaga, on the road to the hydroelectric dam at Balbina there is an area of excellent terra firme forest but in September 2004 (when the site was officially closed to visitors for repairs) we found very few birds there. This area used to be a stake-out for Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock but we were told that trapping has now made them very scarce.
Rico flies here from Manaus twice a week. There are several birding areas in good forest. Opposite the town, on the right bank of the Rio Negro, just below the waterfall, there is an excellent trail through seasonally flooded igapó and then terra firme forest (the Trilha dos Índios). Twenty minutes downstream by boat, also on the right bank, there is a long terra firme forest trail, starting opposite the village of the Tapajós Indians. On these trails you can find a wealth of antbirds such as Undulated Antshrike Frederickena unduligera, Pearly Antshrike Megastictus margaritatus, Yellow-throated Antwren Myrmotherula ambigua, Amazonas Antbird Percnostola minor, Gray-bellied Antbird Myrmeciza pelzelni, White-plumed Antbird Pithys albifrons, Bicolored Antbird Gymnopithys leucaspis and Chestnut-crested Antbird Rhegmatorhina cristata. The rare Fiery-tailed Awlbill Avocettula recurvirostris has been seen on the Tapajós trail.
On the left bank, opposite the Ilha dos Reis, there is a beautiful, long, winding igarapé (creek) which is a good place to go by boat in the afternoon, as is the Igarapé Acatanum, also on the left bank, half an hour above the waterfall.
The road to Camanaus (São Gabriel’s river port) runs through forest on sandy soil. One kilometre after the access road to the airport there is dirt road to the right, leading to the Tapajós Indian village. Here you will find campina specialists like Cherrie’s Antwren Myrmotherula cherriei and Brown-headed Greenlet Hylophilus brunneiceps. At about km 35 on the main road, two kilometres before Camanaus, there is another dirt road leading to the river with taller forest. Here we found among many other species Black-faced Hawk Leucopternis melanops, Gilded Barbet Capito auratus and a very cooperative White-lored Tyrannulet Ornithion inerme which came down to eye level to be photographed.
The road north from São Gabriel to Cucuí, on the Venezuelan border, is said to have had good birding but the forest on either side of the road has been cleared and we found no good habitat. At km 5 there is a marshy area with many bushes with the same red flowers as at the Parque Ecológico Lajes at Presidente Figueiredo. We were assured that Fiery Topaz Topaza pyra is a cert here but it never appeared for us on two visits. On the Cucuí road we got as far as the equator (at about km 30) and found no good forest accessible from the road. I have been told that there is a good trail at km 51 but it may no longer exist.
The place to stay in São Gabriel is the Hotel Wuapés (cheap, damp but clean). Eat at Dona Íris’ restaurant, just along the road. She serves freshly fried potato crisps as a starter. Excellent cheap Indian handicrafts can be bought at the FOIRN shop in town. Sr. José, the caretaker of the now defunct King’s Island Hotel, was our boatman and a taxi driver, Barbosinha, took us to the road sites. Both very dependable.
This sleepy town on the Rio Madeira is half an hour’s flight by Rico from Manaus (or at least 24 hours by a daily boat). It has some very special birds, notably Brown-chested Barbet Capito brunneipectus, White-breasted Antbird Rhegmatorhina hoffmannsi, Pale-faced Antbird Skutchia borbae, Hoffman’s Woodcreeper Dendrocolaptes hoffmannsi and Buff-cheeked Tody-Flycatcher Poecilotriccus (Hemitriccus?) senex.
A curious situation has arisen at Borba where access to the birding sites is for all practical purposes controlled by a local taxidriver, Natan (tel.512-12020), the owner of one of the most decrepit cars I have ever travelled in. The best forest is in an Indian reserve on the other side of the Rio Mapiá, at the end of the only road out of Borba, 25 km south of the town. To get official permission to enter the reserve would be difficult if not impossible. Natan uses the services of Sr. Barroso, a local would-be politician (14 votes in the last election), whose wife is Indian. Barrroso has a leaky boat and uses the community’s outboard motor to ferry birders across the river and get permission from the Indians to enter the forest. Natan and Barroso charge exorbitantly by Amazonian standards (R$120 and R$50 per day respectively – about US$40 / 17) for doing very little but it would be a hassle with the risk of problems to try to do it cheaper. There is also a singular lack of vehicles in Borba with the exception of motor-bikes which replace cars for most people. We had difficulty in getting from the airport to the hotel because neither of the two taxis in Borba was available when we arrived.
There are three trail systems in the Indian reserve, all through magnificent terra firme forest (as usual in this habitat the birds are sparse and difficult to see). One trail, Santo António, is a few minutes downstream. The other two, Velhacada and São Raimundo, are ten and thirty minutes upstream. We walked all day on Santo António twice and São Raimundo once but much to our chagrin never found an antswarm. Most other birders have had better luck. The trails are very faint and easy to lose. Be sure to take a compass and if you lose the trail, bushwack northwest till you hit a trail or the river.
Buff-cheeked Tody-Flycatcher is readily found in the dense vegetation along the river.
Just before reaching Barroso’s house, near the Rio Mapiá, there is a long logging trail to the left through disturbed but still adequate terra firme forest. One can spend a day here.
A few kilometres out of town there is a dirt road to the left with a sign to to the INCRA settlement at Puxurizal. After a few kilometres you pass a church and a public telephone with a satellite dish. Two kilometres later turn right and then right again at a T-junction (Natan knows all this). The road then passes through a two kilometres or so of good terra firme forest with excellent views of the canopy. We found a fruiting tree here which was busy every afternoon. Along this road we saw, inter alia, Dusky Parrot Pionus fuscus, Brown-banded Puffbird Notharchus ordii, Brown-chested Barbet Capito brunneipectus, Sclater’s Antwren Myrmotherula sclateri, Rufous-tailed Xenops Xenops milleri, Hoffman’s Woodcreeper Dendrocolaptes hoffmannsi, the transitivus subspecies of Olivaceous Woodcreeper Sittasomus griseicapillus (with a very different song from amazonus) and Blue-backed Tanager Cyanicterus cyanicterus.
The Lana’s Bella Hotel (tel. 512-1114) is simple but good. On request and at a small extra charge they will serve a lavish early breakfast at 4:30 am.
The Reserva Natural Palmarí is located in the extreme west of Brazil overlooking the Rio Javarí, with Peru on the opposite bank. The lodge is owned and run by Colombians and most of the visitors get here via Bogotá, Colombia, but one can also fly from Manaus.
The lodge is reached by a three hour boat ride from the twin towns of Tabatinga (Brazil) and Leticia (Colombia). It is simple, without electricity (though they will run a small generator if you need to charge batteries) but with plumbing. The food is simple but good. There is a fairly extensive trail system in terra firme forest behind the lodge and through várzea and terra firme forest along the river. One can also cross the river to at least one trail in Peru, which leads to an ox-bow lake. After three or four days one would begin to repeat the trails but by no means the birds. A 35 m high canopy platform has been built in an emergent in the terra firme forest and a Colombian instructor will help you get up to it by rope at US$20 a time. You can either climb using special tools to grip the rope or they will pull you up.
The bird list can be seen at http://www.palmari.org/. Some local specialities are Rio Suno Antwren Myrmotherula sunensis, Black-tailed Antbird Myrmoborus melanurus (both these species only recently recorded in Brazil by Andy Whittaker and Kevin Zimmer), Gray Wren Thryothorus griseus (a bird with a small range and until recently almost unknown in life), Red-crowned Parakeet Pyrrhura roseifrons (a recent split from Painted Parakeet Pyrrhura picta) and Field Guides promise to show clients three species new to science. You can see that it’s all happening at Palmarí!
